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  #1  
Old 05-09-2002, 08:44 PM
CHRIS
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Bby Lsh

This boat has run in the 2:35's for 10 laps.

I made the opening much larger than stock and to my suprise its working out good. a little care when tapeing but it stays dry and is much easier to work on.

the key west in the background uses the same 775 neo on 12 cells and is a blast for 5 min's!!
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  #2  
Old 05-09-2002, 09:03 PM
g3cubed
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Which BBY is this model?

Chris,

One of the boats I've been looking at is the BBY SS Hydro. Your's looks like the Big Splash Turbine, but I'm really not sure since I've never actually seen the BBY SS Hydro. The recommendations I've gotten though is to run BBY's UL1 (Andy's design that they purchased). I've also gotten recommendations to get my hardware from DPI (Fuller's) and my motors from Down Under (fastelectrics.com). I've debated back and forth between brushless and "brushed", which of course would determine whether I could run in LSH or not. If I choose LSH, then I would probably go with Andy's SC3-LP ESC and a Graupner 700 motor. Now, I don't know if I should go solid or flex shaft. The only thing I know is solid the way MRP used to do there's: brass tubing with threaded end piano wire in the center, bearing supports, and a collar/washer/thrust bearing/washer/collar structure on the mating of the shaft to the motor mount and gear shaft or motor shaft.

I'm open for recommendations, as I'm still pretty clueless...
  #3  
Old 05-10-2002, 07:43 AM
CHRIS
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BBY LSH

a shot with cowl on, yes this is a BBY big splash turbine

for a newbie i would definitely go with flex shaft as its much easier to adjust the boats attitude. also with LSH you get 10 laps to see what its doing on the water which also makes it easier to trim out. you also can get by with some homemade hardware and brackets, on this boat I have a hughey strut and flex shaft. the rest is homemade. you'd be suprised at how much more stress a P hydro puts on your turn fin ect. than a LSH.
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  #4  
Old 05-10-2002, 07:43 AM
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AndyKunz AndyKunz is offline
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Replace the threaded shaft with piano wire (hunt for a straight one), the nut with a wheel collar and drive dog, the 1/8" ID tubing with one of several variations (1/8" ID tubing for 1/2" at each end of larger tube for bushing, larger tube with Octura LTS bushings, or 1/4" ID glass or brass tube and ball bearings).

It isn't hard to find a good setup. Click on Jeff Wohlt's logo on one of his posts and find the straight shaft writeup article there.

Andy
  #5  
Old 05-10-2002, 07:44 PM
g3cubed
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Chris & Andy

Thanks for both of your responses.

Andy, I saw the post on the straight shaft setup - thank you. The main difference between the setup I'm used to and yours appears to be with the actual shaft itself. I'll let you know what I decide to do in the near future - you've already been a big help hooking me up with Jr. and answering my questions - THANK YOU! :yeah:

Chris, drop me an e-mail with a phone number if you will. I can give you a call tonight or this weekend (you tell me the time). My e-mail again is g3cubed@bellsouth.net (Andy already has it )
I'm really looking forward to meeting you and checking out all your setups.

Alright, I'll quit with all the faces - just thought it would be fun - hehe.
  #6  
Old 05-10-2002, 09:25 PM
RCBoatingNewbie
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Hey- like the look- simple, and sharp- is that some sticker type material (the hot pink/orange)? It looks like the hull is straight ABS- in all, I don't see any paint except for the black on the canopy. Is that correct? Shoot, the black could be some applied material... How did you get this look?

Thanks,
Paul (building a BBY VS)
  #7  
Old 05-10-2002, 10:31 PM
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AndyKunz AndyKunz is offline
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Re: Chris & Andy

DUH on my part. Maybe I should tell you what I do now ;l)

I use a 1/16" piano wire and put it inside two layers of K&S brass tubing, giving me a 1/8" OD steel-core brass driveshaft.

The setscrews for the drive dog and motor couple screw down against the steel - I notch the brass so they can. This gives the strength of steel to turn the prop but the inflexibililty from the brass to make it useful.

Also, brass tubing is straight 99% of the time, and much easier to get to exactly the right diameter to fit the bearings. It doesn't rust either.

The piano wire core is soldered poorly into the brass - the quality of the joint doesn't make any difference as the steel is carrying the rotational load and the brass is just along for the ride.

Andy
  #8  
Old 05-10-2002, 10:48 PM
CHRIS
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sticker material

newbie,

your right its all decal sheets I bought at the local hobby or tower hobbies, except the canopy. added the white at the top back of canopy cause it didn't look quite right all black.

After the paint on my UL-1 (above or below post) started peeling off when I removed my hatch tape I decided painting wasn't my thing.

I know they're not the best looking boats but I'm happy with the looks and they don't ever scratch. According to others times posted it is fast as anyone else's and thats why I posted the pic.
in case someone wanted some info on building it. at 60.00 bucks the hull is half the price of others , durable in a crash and with carbon fiber arrow shafts set in an roman numeral two for stiffining(I split them in half to save money and since it isn't for "P" sport) it runs with the best of them. I can't say enough about this hull,(after making the hatch opening bigger) the durability of the 700 bb motors, the ten lap run time and this LSH class. If you can afford two 6 cell packs thisis the best begginer class. But I love hydro's and thats my opinion.

sorry, got carried away. the decals, I lay them out with a straight edge or thin wire for curves , cut one side and trace aruond for the other side so they're the same. nuthin to it

I used "T" aluminum for the strut bracket, alum. angle for the turn fin and rudder brackets, hughey strut, flex cable and rudder arm. motor mount and rudder are also custom.(homemade/cheap)

almost forgot its flouro red and all black is paint


thanks for the complement
  #9  
Old 05-12-2002, 02:06 AM
Pete B. Pete B. is offline
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Andy, this may seem stupid but what does the drive dog end look like? how do you keep the prop on? Is it with a collar? I read your article on Jeff's site and the saw the video. All of my props are 3/16 id I think Do you keep building up the OD with brass.

Thanks Pete
 

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